Camera Man

Camera Man is looking at surf culture through the female gaze and how to help bring awareness for female surf photographers. The history of surf photography through a woman's eyes. There is an unbreakable relationship between the camera and a surfers career. The industry as a whole is male dominated and has always been that way.

When looking at the history of surf photography there is one word that stands out amongst the rest, “He”. Almost every article out there refers to a male surf photographer unless you specifically searched for women surf photographers.

THE BEGINNING

THE BEGINNING

Surf photography has been around since the late nineteenth century in Waikiki. Surf photography really took shape with Tom Blake. This waterman changed the course of surfing with the invention of the fin and windsurfing. He was the first to use water housing that gave a whole new perspective to surfing. This caught the eyes of National Geographic and they published his work in their 1935 magazine.

The next man to impact surf photography is Jon Heath “Doc”. Ball who is one of the co-founders of The Palos Verdes Surf Club. Doc really developed the art of surf photography at my home break Bluff Cove. In the early Years Doc would paddle out with the camera in between his teeth. Once up and riding a party wave he would take pictures side by side with his fellow surfers. Doc, like Blake, wanted more and also made his own water housing.

During World War II the surfing world took a pause to go to war. During this time is when Owen Churchill invented the swim fins. This brought a whole new element allowing photographers better swimming ability to get into deeper and bigger waves than previously thought imaginable. Doc picked up the use of swim fins for bodysurfing during the war. After the war he continued taking pictures with the use of the fins.

MALE GAZE RUNS DEEP

Surf culture started to become mainstream in the sixties. The movie Endless Summer came out in 1965, helping show the ultimate surfers dream. At this time the introduction of the lightweight 35mm SLR camera from Nikon and Canon, changing the way surfing was shot forever. Leroy Grannis and Bruce Brown, creators of Endless Summer, liked the 35mm a lot better than the previously used medium format camera. Surf magazines started being produced then too. Doc had a hand in this, being the co-founder of Surfing Magazine. Post war saw the transition from black and white to color film.

Ron Stoner was the leading man in color surf photography. He worked for Surfing Magazine 1965-1967 creating images that were unlike anything that had been previously produced. Stoner's work stood out among the rest because of the quality and style for the time. Stoner was able to truly capture a surfer's whole lifestyle. This helped feed into the ideal male surfers lifestyle. This was where surfer journalism based its understanding that it was to be for the male gaze. Shot by men and produced for men.

Women surfing has always been minimized and underestimated. To a man it is not a story worth telling until she’s doing something that is considered groundbreaking or is thought to be in possible for a woman to do.

Stoner shot everything male surfers were doing from the line up to portraits. He recorded it all to show everything he thought was worth seeing. His work was highly recognized, setting the tone for what a surfing magazine could be. Stoner got the cover of Surfing magazine unheard of six times. Stoner’s success was short-lived with him suffering from schizophrenia. He stopped shooting in 1971 and went missing in 1977. His tragedy was the first of a surf photographer’s road to madness, but will not be the last. Reaffirming this was not thought to be a job for a woman.

Pioneer skate photographer Warren Bolster moved to North Shore in 1978 bringing his new age thinking with him. He was the first to use the fish eye lens, strobes, and even started using a helicopter with a remote controlled camera he developed. In later years he would use a custom made dome to get half in half out of the water shots. Bolster had a tragic end himself, taking his own life in 2016.

Jeff Divine and Art Brewer took hold of the scene in the seventies. Their work showcased the start of professional surfing. Professional surfing brought a whole new dynamic where women were minimized and male gaze ruled. Contests didn’t see the women on the same level and would send the women out when the surf was bad so that everyone else could have a lunch break. Even worse, contests would have their focus on bikini contests at the beach simultaneously when the women surfers were competing. Either way women were not shown the same respect from the event holders, so the crowd would follow suit. The men were the main focus for contests and magazines. With the draw of professional surfing sponsors started to take notice.

This call came to a head 1989 OP Pro in Huntington Beach tried to take out the woman's contest entirely because the men wanted more prize money. Not just that, they were planning to leave in the bikini contest. The women fought back. They wrote letters to the city and OP Pro. Editors for Surfing Magazine even wrote in to help.

Ultimately they were able to generate enough negative press to put the contest back on.

In the late seventies Canon came out with the first autofocus SLR camera. This took away part of the skill level needed to get a solid photo. In the eighties surf photography would change forever with the invention of the telephoto lens. In 1981 Canon created a 800mm lens that became the standard of surf photographers. If a woman is doing surf photography it is stereotypic thought that she would be using a telephoto lens and not risk being in the water.

BREAKING THE GLASS CEILING

Elizabeth Pepin-Silva broke the glass ceiling. She saw that the women were not getting the recognition they deserve and dedicated herself to changing it. Elizabeth proved that a woman could do all the same things as a man in and out of the water. She was the first woman to get her work published in surfing magazines. She started changing the narrative that women surfers don’t have to be sexualized but are world class athletes. She was the first woman to shoot in and out of the water, proving that it wasn’t too big for a woman.

21 CENTURY

Photoshop was invented in the nineties by Thomas Knoll. This was huge bringing in a new era of digital editing. Digital cameras were not first fully embraced like the leash. With the mindset being you should be good enough with how to use a film camera if you are going to be a professional photographer. And with photoshop you could go back in and edit, so the initial image didn’t have to be as amazing to start.

In the 21 century surfers are striving to get into bigger and more gnarly waves. In a digital era this comes with photographers following write behind, in front, above or underneath to get that perfect shot of proof.

Surf magazines were run by the advisors. Surf magazines write stories about women once in a blue moon. When this story would finally come out it would cover a group, never just one. This has been happening since the 80’s and still continues to this day. Free Surf gets an honorable mention for having at least one solo women article in every magazine as well as showcasing the men and women winners of every contest equally. But that's about it… The modern age if you go hunting you could possibly find that stand out shot of a woman taking up both pages but in comparison to men is a one-to-ten ratio.

Since the 20th century the camera and a surfers career have always gone hand in hand. Doc establishes the want for surf photography allowing surf magazines to flourish in the seventies. As technology advanced so did people’s desire to surf larger waves. Surf photographers have documented every step of this gnarly journey.

WOMEN IN SURF PHOTOGRAPHY

  • Sachi Cuningham: Sachi is proving there is not too big of a surf for a women surf photographer. From Mavericks to Jaws she is in water capturing her fellow women.

  • Jesse Jenning: My inspiration Jess Jennings is a modern business woman. She is on Tik Tok and Youtube documenting her journey as an up and coming surf photographer. She was the first woman I saw making a career out of surf photography and gives me the confidence in myself to excel. 

  • Fran Miller: She dedicated herself to showcasing the power of women surfers.  An article done for Canon she said, “ Shooting men is more focused on the action of what they’re doing. Shooting women is more about tapping into the emotions.” She is focused on the female gaze and brings a fresh look at surf photography.